Bright blue sky, twinkling sunlight and sparkling waters frothing on the bone-white beach of sand so perfectly soft and fine — yet I stand, at a “safe” distance, just watching. Watching what? Silver seals with skin shimmering from their nightly fishing expeditions, resting, playing and just basking in the sunny glory, mostly ignoring the groups of human visitors who have politely gathered about 30m away just to observe them. I have never envied seals till now.
On Kangaroo Island (affectionately called “KI” by the locals) in South Australia, animal envy happens very often. The said beach Seal Bay is, as its name implies, a magnificent stretch of sand reserved only for its namesake creatures. 20, or perhaps 40 of them claim the beach every day in blissful oblivion of the tourist groups. This island is all about wild life. Take a drive or a walk and you might run into a darting wallaby here, a happy kangaroo there, or spot a rare species of the 267 types of birds that are found on the island.
Life is pretty good on KI — and not just for the fauna and flora. From whispers among the finicky well-travelled circle, I heard about the award-winning boutique hotel, Southern Ocean Lodge (SOL), located at the southernmost tip of KI.
The Good Life
Nothing can quite prepare you for the view at SOL. We amble through the large wooden door, tired and hot from the drive — and it hits us. Jaws dropped, eyes dilated, we snap back into life seeing the panorama of endless blue of sky blending into ocean, next to craggy cliffs. The resort treads ever so lightly on the cliff with nothing else within miles, along the coastline without a barrier between it and Antarctica. That view of azure infinity is welcomed through the full glass doors that are used in lieu of walls in the resort’s eco-sensitive building.
For all its isolation, SOL is about living it up. The design is modern-luxe and urbane. Each of the 21 suites is has a sunken lounge that looks out to the surroundings. You can see the ocean even from the bathroom. Sunrise and sunset at your outdoor deck are always spectacular. All the guest suites are, quaintly enough, named after shipwrecks around the island dating back to the 1800s.
The meal plans are all inclusive like that on a cruise. Evenings can be spent mingling with other guests at pre-dinner wine-tastings and canapés, games and general socializing at the bar and communal table. Since South Australia has gained quite a reputation as the country’s culinary capital, every meal here is a gourmet experience; lunch and dinner are three to four course affairs with wine pairings.
One of SOL’s bespoke experiences is an evening called “Kangas and Kanapés”, which takes us to Grassdale, a historic island property where kangaroos and wallabies congregate to graze. Creeping up on these marsupials for a close-up photo-op is well worth the trek on the fields. After kanga-spotting, we watch the sunset with wine and canapés made with local produce. It is a different kind of safari, some say. That’s why Kangaroo Island is called the Galapagos of Australia.
Explore The Island
- Hike on the Hanson Bay limestone cliff, scale the Remarkable Rocks for its Dali-esque granite boulders, beach fishing, kayaking. Watch fur seals sun themselves on the rocks at Admirals Arch. On the exploration tours, it’s a game of spotting the intriguing platypus, the elusive osprey, the exotic snakes and birds lurking around.
- A nocturnal tour to Hanson Bay Sanctuary reveals a world that comes alive while we sleep. Spot koalas snacking on gum trees or their males sending out weird guttural mating calls, echidnas, bats and possums.
- Go on the KI Farm Gate and Cellar Door Trail to visit the honey and lavender farms, South Australia’s only eucalyptus distillery, vineyards and cellar doors, while tasting some marron (a local crayfish) and cider along the way. Produce lovers will not leave the island without a decent stash of Ligurian honey. Unique to KI, the gentle and productive Ligurian bees can’t be found anywhere else on the planet.
- Get pampered at SOL’s Southern Spa. Perched on the cliff with stunning panoramic views, this beautiful sanctuary offers superb treatments using Aboriginal techniques.
Recommendation
A weeklong stay is ideal for a thorough exploration of the island.